Monday, 31 August 2015

Dog Gone Cute Sew Along and Blog Hop

Dog Gone Quilt by Sew Fresh Quilts

Tomorrow sees the start of the Dog Gone Cute Sew Along hosted by Lorna at Sew Fresh Quilts

Each week from 1st September onwards Lorna will share instructions on her blog for piecing the various dogs.
In October the Blog Hop starts and you can follow a whole host of bloggers, including me! and see what we've made 
In November  a link party will be available for you to share your blog, Instagram or Flickr photos of what you've made and there will be some awesome prizes to be won too!

There are two block sizes: Small finishing at 9" x 6" and Large finishing at 18" x 12"
There are two sizes of quilts: Mini 30" x 30" and Maxi 60" x 60".

You can make a something as small as a pouch or a full quilt.

Of course if you want to work at your own pace, you can purchase the pattern HERE

I know exactly what I'm going to make for the Blog Hop. It is something for this little guy that I looked after for my son and daughter-in-law this weekend.

I do hope you'll join us. It's going to be a lot of fun!

Tuesday, 25 August 2015

Farm Girl Vintage Quilt - Aiming for Accuracy

Today I'm talking a bit about my progress with the Farm Girl Vintage Quilt. The quilt is from this book by Lori Holt.

There is a quilt-along in progress which Lori hosts from her blog A Bee in my Bonnet
We are working systematically through the book making 2 blocks a week, either the 12" size or the 6" according to your preference. The Instagram hashtags are #farmgirlfridays and #farmgirlvintage.

I chose to join the quilt along and make the 6" blocks for one reason. I have until now been really bad at accuracy when working on a small scale like this! I wasn't sure at the start that it was my kind of quilt. I joined purely to improve my skills. It's worked and I just love the quilt now! A few years ago I started the Farmers Wife Sampler Quilt from the book by Laurie Aaron Hird. I made a few blocks, was disappointed by my lack of accuracy and they now sit languishing in a cupboard. I'm getting lots of practice at small scale at the moment. I'm also making the My Small World quilt by Jen Kingwell and I'm going to join the 1930s Farmers Wife QAL posted by VeryKerryBerry (and hopefully finish my original Farmers Wife quilt at the same time!)

Some of the pieces in these blocks are really small. And I mean REALLY SMALL! 
You cut plenty of 1" squares.

So what have I done to improve my accuracy? 
Here are a few of the things that have worked for me:

1. Starch your fabrics before you begin.
You need to starch everything. If some fabrics are starched and others are not you will get in a mess. 
Also make sure you starch before you cut. Some fabrics shrink a little when starched. I cut a strip of fabric 1/4" wider than I need for the largest piece in the block and starch it. Leave a while to impregnate and then press it dry. You will be using the fabrics in other blocks so I just store the unused starched pieces in a box ready to use later.
For now I use regular spray starch from the supermarket. I don't really like using aerosols and I'm not prepared to pay the price for Best Press so I've been experimenting with making my own from cornflour, but the recipe still needs a little work. 

2. Shorten the stitch length on your sewing machine slightly.
Just a little makes a big difference. The normal setting I use on my Bernina is 2.4. For 6" detailed blocks I reduce it to 2.0, for easier ones I just go down to 2.2.

3. Use leaders and enders
These are small scraps of fabric that you sew before you start sewing the block seam and then again when you've finished. It means you never start a seam with the two ends of the thread dangling free. You don't risk the possibility of the machine "chewing" the first couple of stitches, which in turn will distort the block.
I have a box of 1 1/2" scrap squares beside me and randomly sew 2 together at the start and whenever I would normally cut the thread. 

I remember the sewing room at school always had the machines ready threaded with a piece of muslin under each foot with a few stitches sewn. I always wondered why! Now my machine always has one too. The sewn pieces will eventually become a postage stamp quilt for charity.

4. Check you are sewing exactly 1/4" seam
I know this sounds obvious, but it needs to be EXACT. ALL the time.
I really struggled with this for a long time.
My 1/4" was precise enough for large scale blocks, but not for these (and the dreaded Farmers Wife Sampler!) The normal methods of placing marker tape on the machine bed etc. just didn't work well enough for me. In the end I drew the 1/4" line on the blocks with a pencil, until I could recognise exactly where it was. I only needed to do it for a few blocks. I trained myself not to look too much at the pencil line, but at the foot and it worked!

5. Press your seams open.
This is something I had started doing for a while on all my quilts and it really helps on these blocks, where there are a lot of intersecting seams.
I gently finger press whenever possible. Press is the key word. Don't rub your fingers back and forth. Once the block progresses and seams intersect I use a dry iron, minimally, saving a good press until the block is complete.

6. Pin mindfully
I used to pin too much. I used to pin through the seams to make them match up. I think those pins did as much harm as they did good. They often distorted the seam line.
If no seams need matching I no longer pin on seams as short as these.
Where seams need matching I use this approach. Push a pin vertically into the seams of the 2 layers, checking back and front that they are perfectly aligned. Hold that pin vertical from top to bottom.
Place a second pin to the left just outside the seam allowance, so it is going through just 2 layers (the fewer layers it goes through the less distortion). Place a third pin to the right, just outside the seam allowance.

Remove the upright pin before placing the seam under your machine.
Its also worth investing in some good quality pins that aren't too heavy for the job on hand.

7. Trim up as you go.
Lori tells you at every stage what size the finished segment should be. Measure as you go and trim off even the tiniest bit that might be wonky.

8. Unpick a puckered seam
Now, I might be the only idiot who, when noticing a little pucker used to say, "Oh it'll press out at the end"
Trust me, it won't! If there's a pucker halfway through, it'll still be there at the end, and there will probably be a lot more problems along the way! That's what the unpicker tool is for right?!

These few techniques have really improved the accuracy of my work. It's still not perfect but I'm happy with it.
I post photos regularly on Instagram (link at the top of the right hand side bar), and often have fun styling them according to the block title.
Here are a few of my favourites.

Peas and Carrots 
Pie Cherries
Autumn Star and Baby Chick

Chicken Foot and Canning Season

Butter Churn and Baking Day

I hope these tips help anyone who is also struggling with accuracy when working small scale.
I'm looking forward to showing you my progress on the My Small World quilt soon!

And now it's definitely time to put the kettle on!

Kettle's On!

Tuesday, 21 July 2015

My Hand Pieced Mini Swap

A few months ago I joined a secret swap on Instagram. We had to make a mini quilt that was completely hand pieced.
I chose to make mine using English Paper Piecing.
I started with an idea that I drew on EQ7

I was hoping to make lots of different pieced hexagons and then appliqué them onto a background with gaps between them that I could do some big stitch quilting in. But after a little experimenting, I found that they were hard to appliqué, particularly if seams came right to the edges, so I reverted to joining the hexagons in the normal manner. I also restricted myself to two or three designs of hexagon to give it a little more unity.

It was fun working on a layout for these!

I got to do my big stitch quilting, too!

I procrastinated for a long time over the label, but once I hit upon the idea of an embroidered flower in the shape of hexagons, i enjoyed that too. I've had to cover up the name in the photo just incase my partner hasn't received it yet!!

I made her a few extras:

There's a Dumpling Pouch from a  Free Pattern, a needle case made mainly from scraps of Denise Schmidt fabric (her favourite designer) and a covered notebook. To make the notebook I backed some fabric scraps with Bondaweb, and then cut out the hexagons. I ironed them in place onto a tiny piece of linen and then worked a small blanket stitch around each to make sure they stayed in place. I finished it off with the wording and border and then used more Bondaweb to secure the design to the front of the notebook. 
It felt good to get all these posted off today. I hope she like what she receives!!

Monday, 6 July 2015

Triangle Baby Quilt Free Pattern

Today I'm delighted to say that I'm once again guest blogger on the Simply Solids blog. When Justine asked me to make something with any of their new range of fabrics I knew exactly what I wanted to make. I love the modern look of triangle quilts and the new Linea Tonal fabrics by Makower UK were perfect for this.

I have made a triangle quilt in the past, and I have to be honest, my points weren’t all that I’d hoped they’d be! This time round I used a few tricks that meant everything went together quickly and easily. 
This is a quilt that you can make in a weekend!
I chose 5 Linea colours: Teal, Yellow, Charcoal, Grey and Cream
They read as solids, but the tonal hatching design really adds depth to the quilt.
I have written up a free pattern for this quilt.You can download the PDF with full size templates, fabric requirements, instructions and layout diagram HERE

I lightly spritzed my fabrics with starch to reduce any stretch on the bias edges.

Print off the templates, cut them out and use them to cut your fabric triangles. Always place your quilting ruler over the template and use it as a straight edge for rotary cutting. Be careful not to shave any of the seam allowance off the template.
The next step might seem a bit of a pain, but I think it really made a difference to how my points turned out.
With a needle, I made a hole on the paper templates at the 3 seam intersections. The hole needs to be large enough to get a fabric marking pen through. I used a Frixion Pen. I then marked the 3 intersection points on the back of each triangle. It took me about 20 minutes to mark them all, and I consider it time well spent as I didn’t have to resort to my seam ripper later on!
Then you simply pin two triangles together lining up the dots.
I think the technique worked!

I did not press my seams with an iron until I had finished the whole quilt top. I just finger pressed, again to avoid distortion. You need to press the seams on the first row to the right, on the second row to the left, third to the right, and so on so that when you join the rows they lie nice and flat

When thinking about quilting this, I decided that the beauty of the quilt was in its simplicity and that should I should simply follow the lines of the triangles. I was very tempted to add more lines or just to straight line quilt it, but I’m pleased with how it turned out.
I used Architextures extra wide fabric for the backing and had plenty left over, so I used the remaining piece for the binding. I’ve never been able to that before. I love the effect!

If you want to have a go at this pattern Justine and Lisa have all the fabrics in their shop so hop on over and take a look. They are offering a 15% discount on all Linea fabrics until 15th July 2015. Just use the code: Triangles

If you're on Instagram and make this quilt, make sure you tag your photos #mackandmabelpattern That way I can see what you've made!
Happy sewing! 


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